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☆ Sweet Tea-Brined Roast Chicken for Sunday Supper
▼ + stars: | 2024-05-05 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I made sweet tea and drank it over an enormous amount of ice, on the stoop, marveling at how sometimes sweet tea is the best tea, even if you usually drink tea straight, no sugar, with not even a lemon to counter the tannins. Sweet tea is reckless tea, unhealthy tea, a liquid candy bar, not something to drink every day. But it has its place, and I made enough of it so I could use the leftovers as a brine for Millie Peartree’s luscious roast chicken (above). Combine the tea with a big handful of Cajun seasoning and marinate chicken legs in it all day. Baste with the juices and serve with baked sweet potatoes, oh my.

Persons: Millie Peartree’s, It’s

☆ How to Use Up Those Easter Eggs
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-31 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I had a lovely run of Brooklyn sandwiches going, before work, school and Easter intervened to send me back to the kitchen. A colossal roast beef, fried eggplant and mozzarella hero from Defonte’s in Red Hook, with hot peppers, gravy and mayonnaise. (A few years ago, I ginned up a recipe for the roast beef hero from Defonte’s.) But today is Easter, and not really a day for sandwiches — unless they’re ham ones on little potato rolls, with strong mustard, to eat in a side yard in the chill while children run around looking for hidden eggs. I want to make deviled eggs (above) to celebrate the holiday puckishly, or maybe a big egg salad to serve in lettuce cups.

Persons: Easter Locations: Brooklyn, Saigon, Ba, Sunset Park, Defonte’s, Red Hook, Taku, Greenpoint, Kings County

☆ Practice Makes Perfect Biscuits
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-24 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

If you make biscuits (above) today — and you ought to — they ought to be terrific. But if you make biscuits today and do so again next weekend and the weekend after and the weekend after that, they will be terrific, the best biscuits ever. This is a matter of practice related to what martial artists call kata — a set pattern that rewards repetition with excellence. The same goes for pizza dough — whether for pan pizza, Neapolitanish pizza or Chicago tavern-style pizza. “You’ve got to keep your hands in the flour,” the pizza lord Anthony Falco once told me, a reminder to always be making pizza dough, to be attuned to its particulars, to keep up the practice.

Persons: “ You’ve, Anthony Falco Locations: Chicago

☆ A Rich Braise From a Cheap Cut
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-17 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

I like corned beef and cabbage myself for the holiday — Irish American food to ship up to Boston with, soda bread on the side. For you, then, this incredible bourbon-braised beef (above) that Vallery Lomas developed for us. The whiskey adds a fantastic complexity to a cheap cut of boneless beef chuck burbled with maple syrup, caramelized tomato paste, thyme, bay leaves and hints of both soy sauce and lemon juice. It’s as Irish as Carmela Soprano, but I’d serve it to your ma tonight with no misgivings. (Save the leftover braising liquid to make French onion soup.)

Persons: Patrick’s, that’s, Vallery Lomas, Carmela Soprano Organizations: Irish Locations: Boston

☆ Your Grilled Cheese Needs Toum
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-10 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

I’m embracing nostalgia today, luxuriating in memories of a Brooklyn I never experienced, even though I’m borough-raised. And for dinner beforehand, maybe Chinese roast pork on garlic bread? For Ham El-Waylly, nostalgia is a grilled cheese sandwich slathered with toum (above), a sauce made by combining garlic, lemon juice, salt and oil. The mixture is one that recalls the akkawi cheese manakeesh sandwiches he used to consume as a teenager in Doha, Qatar. The toum packs a wallop, as if you’d stuffed garlic bread with Muenster.

Persons: Ham Locations: Brooklyn, I’m, Coney, Ebinger’s, Doha, Qatar

☆ Go Big With Bibimbap
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-03 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

On Sunday, I like a project in the kitchen more than on any other day. It’s a chance to work at the stove without the need to get something on the table in 45 minutes, a time to stretch my skill set. Vivian Chan’s new recipe for bibimbap (above) suits beautifully. The dish traces its history to the last dynastic kingdom of Korea, the Josean, which lasted 500 years. It’s a showstopper of a meal with loads of components: a flavorful mixture of rice topped with bulgogi, shiitake mushrooms, bean sprouts, spinach, carrots and cucumbers, drizzled with a spicy gochujang sauce.

Persons: It’s, Vivian Chan’s Locations: Korea

☆ Chili for the Championship
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-11 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Many will make chili (above) today, one of the great foods of National Football League cuisine, up there with wings and nachos. Ali Slagle’s recipe is top-drawer: deep in flavor, spice and smokiness, and fairly easy to prepare. Make it with whatever meat you like — so long as it’s decently fatty, to bring out the taste of the aromatics. Chili’s a good way to guarantee a win during the Super Bowl, whichever team you’re rooting for. Bryan laughed when I said that and told me it was just fine to substitute a commercial browning sauce instead — something like Kitchen Bouquet, available in most grocery stores.

Persons: Ali Slagle’s, Chili’s, Darian Bryan, Velma Hawthorne, Bryan Organizations: National Football League Locations: Jamaica, New York

☆ Gingery Longevity Noodles to Make Again and Again
▼ + stars: | 2024-02-04 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

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Organizations: The

☆ Plush, Perfumed Pepperpot
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-28 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Two or three clicks on the laptop and the mail carrier soon brought me a few pounds of the Provel cheese necessary to make it. Today’s shopping: cassareep, a Guyanese syrup of boiled cassava root, savory-sweet, like a cross between molasses and Worcestershire sauce. It’s a crucial ingredient in one of Guyana’s most beloved dishes, pepperpot (above), which Millie Peartree brought to New York Times Cooking this week. Of course you can buy cassareep online, but if there’s a Caribbean market where you are, it’s most likely stocked there as well. Browned into beef chuck, it makes for a lovely stew: spicy, fragrant, slightly sweet and sticky.

Persons: Louis, Millie Peartree, there’s Organizations: The New York Times, Lambert, New York Times Locations: Guyanese, Worcestershire, Caribbean

☆ These Are Superior Potatoes
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-26 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Mark Bittman is a freewheeling cook, a minimalist, open to improvisation. If I were writing his biography, I’d title it “Largely Unattended.”Kenji López-Alt is the opposite: an exacting, scientifically minded kitchen authority who employs terms like “polysaccharide glue” to explain why, for example, his Parmesan-crusted roasted potatoes (above) are so shockingly crisp and delicious. Read the recipe a few times before you make it, and then watch him make the dish on our YouTube channel so you’re well acquainted with the process. You’ll see. These are superior potatoes, amazing potatoes, just the dish to accompany a cast-iron steak that, when you’ve come to the end of the cooking process, you should take off the heat and baste in butter, with a healthy sprig of rosemary and a couple of cloves of garlic.

Persons: Mark Bittman, ” Kenji López, you’ve Locations: Detroit

☆ Sundays Are for Bolognese
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-21 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

If there’s a better scent in the world than Marcella Hazan’s Bolognese sauce (above), I’m unaware of it. Well, apart from fresh-baked apple pie, that is. And wooden boats, spit-roasted lamb, fresh-cut hay and Jamaican black cake. But Bolognese is pretty great: that milk-calmed tomato over a bass line of beef, with a whisper of nutmeg warmth and a low hum of buttery onion. It’s just the thing for a Sunday afternoon of winter cooking, grandma-style, in advance of a family dinner.

Persons: Marcella Hazan’s

☆ The Top-Reviewed Chicken Recipe in Our Cooking Database
▼ + stars: | 2024-01-14 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

My Boston baked beans taste different from Amanda Hesser’s now that I’ve made the dish a gajillion times. They’re both the same recipe. Take my recipe for oven-roasted chicken shawarma, which lots of people make. (More than 17,000 readers have given it a rating on New York Times Cooking.) It was utterly fantastic, and utterly her own — more lemony than mine, a little warmer in spice, the meat cut a little differently — even though she followed the recipe exactly.

Persons: Amanda Hesser’s, I’ve, They’re Organizations: New York Times Locations: Boston

☆ What to Cook After You’ve Cooked Everything
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-26 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

You’ve consumed enough butter, starch and sugar to consider bearlike hibernation for the next week. But would you consider this ginger-scallion steamed fish (above) for dinner? Ali Slagle adapted the recipe from one developed by the chef Connie Chung, of Milu in New York City. Chung’s recipe is itself an adaptation of a classic Cantonese banquet dish, simplified for the fast-casual needs of her restaurant. Hers uses cubed fish steamed with a mixture of soy sauce and a ginger-scallion stock.

Persons: Ali Slagle, Connie Chung, Chung Locations: Milu, New York City

☆ A Thanksgiving Pep Talk
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-23 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Here’s what to know: Every little thing is going to be all right. You’re going to serve the best meal that you can under the circumstances, and it’s going to be delicious and well received. You are not going to change anyone’s mind or behavior today, and that’s all right, too. And I bet it’s a fantastic day. (Here’s a collection of The Times’s best Thanksgiving cocktail recipes.)

Persons: Uncle Bertie, we’ve

☆ You’ve Planned Your Play. Now Play Your Plan.
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-19 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

For those of us who take Thanksgiving seriously, who plan and plan and cook and cook, this last Sunday before the feast marks the real start of the holiday. I’m short two dozen chairs!) That’s OK. Everything will turn out just fine. I trust the process. So I’ll spend a few hours working my plan and then turn to a simple dinner of chicken thighs cooked under a brick with a cheesy Hasselback potato gratin (above) on the side, a dress rehearsal for a new drop on Thursday.

Persons: I’ll

Infuse tofu with the flavors of Korean barbecue in this fast weeknight dish from Sam Sifton. You can find it on New York Times Cooking here. This is what Sam calls a “no-recipe recipe,” an invitation for you to improvise in the kitchen.

Persons: Sam Sifton, Sam Organizations: New York Times

☆ Chaat Party Has Entered the Party Chat
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-05 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Good morning. This took a lot of gas, a lot of time and a toll on our bodies. So we laughed hard when the only good fishing we had came at the very end of the day, a few boat lengths from the marina, across from Four Sparrow Marsh near Mill Basin, Brooklyn. For dinner that night, and for you this evening: a chaat party, essentially a no-recipe recipe that Priya Krishna adapted from one in the 2020 cookbook “Chaat,” by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy. It also served as a kind of rehearsal for the celebration of Diwali, the Hindu celebration of lights, on Nov. 12.

Persons: Sandy Hook, Priya Krishna, Maneet Chauhan, Jody Eddy, Naz Deravian’s, gulab jamun, Christina Morales’s Organizations: Midland, Cabanas, New York Times Locations: Lower, Midland Beach, Staten, New Jersey, Queens, Jamaica, Mill Basin , Brooklyn

☆ A Chill in the Air and Chili in Your Pot
▼ + stars: | 2023-10-29 | by ( Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Chili season gets underway in my house after the first day I am well and truly chilled on my daily bike ride north along the harbor, wind whistling out of the west as if to knock me over. That sure wasn’t yesterday, not in New York! But as Mr. Martin wrote, “Winter is coming.” Sometimes I like a classic chili con carne to warm me up afterward, and always this firehouse chili gumbo. Lately, though, I’ve been thrilling to Pierre Franey’s turkey chili (above), which I make with ground turkey and, freestyling, a bunch of cubed turkey thighs that I think add a welcome textural contrast to the stew. (Chili is endlessly adaptable to your tastes and ingredients, as detailed in my guide to making the dish.)

Persons: Martin, carne, I’ve, Pierre Locations: New York

☆ A Fast and Easy Focaccia for Just a Bit of Baking
▼ + stars: | 2023-10-22 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

These are not easy days we’re marking. The news is relentless and largely grim, and it’s sometimes difficult to imagine a way forward, toward happiness and grace. You’re not alone, if that’s your state of mind. It’s a focaccia to make things just a little bit better. And sometimes that’s enough.

Persons: You’re, Genevieve Ko’s Locations: It’s

☆ Just Like Mom Used to Make
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-24 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

The paprika made me think of the terrific food writer Arthur Schwartz, who was once the restaurant critic for The Daily News and later became known as the Food Maven. Arthur and I got to talking about the spice when I interviewed him for a story about chicken paprikash. I’d asserted that most paprika languishes in spice drawers, and is stale and flavorless as a result. To make a proper paprikash or goulash, I said, the smart move is to purchase some new paprika, bright and flavorful. Lidey’s recipe delivers!

Persons: Lidey Heuck, Arthur Schwartz, Maven, Arthur, I’d, ” Organizations: The Daily News

☆ The Joy (and Friendly Jostling) of Jollof Rice
▼ + stars: | 2023-09-17 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Jollof rice is a West African dish made with rice, tomatoes, onions, lots of peppers and lots of spice. Each one is the best and only jollof rice. An example: A few years ago, around Christmas, my colleague Helene Cooper prepared jollof rice for the Washington bureau of The New York Times. She posted a picture of her dish on the social media site then known as Twitter, calling it “the real and righteous Liberian jollof rice. West African pretenders with your rival nonsense, sit down.”Helene’s jollof rice won raves in the District that evening, but today I want to turn your attention to Yewande Komolafe’s jollof rice (above).

Persons: Helene Cooper, Helene, ”, Yewande Organizations: The New York Times, Twitter, Liberian Locations: West African, Senegal, Cameroon, Sierra Leone, Washington, Liberia, West, District, Nigeria

☆ You Can’t Go Wrong With Hot Dogs and Corn
▼ + stars: | 2023-08-20 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

I’ll be plotting meals, proofing sourdough, sleuthing for blackberries at the back of beyond. My colleagues will cover for me while I’m gone, offering you many delicious things to cook and eat. I’ll see you in September. My dinner tonight could be yours as well, though: grilled corn on the cob (above), slathered with butter and served alongside a platter of hot dogs prepared in the American way, which is to say in a lot of different ways, as J.J. Goode reported for The New York Times. You can’t go wrong with corn and hot dogs, ever.

Persons: I’m, Goode Organizations: blackberries, The New York Times

☆ Pork Chops With Cherry Peppers With Linguine With Clams
▼ + stars: | 2023-08-18 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

There’s no substitute for dessert at The Lemon Ice King of Corona afterward, I’m afraid. Another dish I’d like to make this weekend: Ali Slagle’s Old Bay grilled shrimp. Ali adds a little bit of baking soda to the seasoning, which helps keep the shrimp snappy while they cook, and then tops everything with lemon zest, parsley and garlic. I think that’d be a fine Sunday lunch, in advance of a nap in front of a fan. There are many thousands more recipes to cook this weekend waiting for you on New York Times Cooking.

Persons: Corona, I’m, Ali, I’ve Organizations: Bassmaster, New York Times Locations: Plattsburgh, Lake Champlain

☆ Golden Egg Foo Young, Classic and Versatile
▼ + stars: | 2023-08-13 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

One of my favorite meals at La Caridad 78 on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, before it closed in 2020, was pork egg foo young, alongside yellow rice, black beans and a platter of maduros. Once, afterward, I paused on my way back to the newsroom to sit on a park bench. Kay Chun has a terrific new recipe for egg foo young (above) that I’ll dress up with roast pork from the takeout shop and serve with rice augmented with Sazón seasoning, along with Cuban black beans and these lovely fried sweet plantains. This meal approximates my old lunchtime joy with no need to sleep in public. I just clean up the kitchen and pitch into bed.

Persons: Michael, Kay Chun Organizations: La Locations: Manhattan

☆ A Lush, Buttery, Perfect Peach Crisp
▼ + stars: | 2023-08-06 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Games that my family plays on road trips: Punch Buggy, Stump the Teacher, I’m Thinking of an Animal. Also, the Rating Game: your top five sandwiches, your top five pizzerias, your top five restaurant dishes, your top five fruits. Peaches do very well in the Rating Game, I’ve found, even if your chances of actually eating a perfect peach are low. But cooking a bad peach can make it terrific, which is why I’m so thrilled about Yossy Arefi’s new recipe for a peach crisp (above). Peel them if you like a luscious texture against the buttery crust of oats (I’m a rustic; I don’t peel).

Persons: I’ve

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